I'm done by Glenda

Late last night I finished my jacket.  I  wore it to a Board Luncheon today and got lots of compliments.  I was able to solve my dilemma with the length by using the fabric that I made the cording from for a facing at the bottom of the hem and sleeve.

I am please with the end results.  Did get a bit frustrated along the way and had to put it down for a while. 

Fabric Maven’s Chanel jacket, February, 2011

Cutting and seaming:

My fabric is a blue and cream silk boucle.  It ravels easily.  The blue thread is thick and rope-like, making it hard to cut and sew accurately.  It bleeds easily onto the cream.

I first cut the yardage into pieces a little larger that each pattern piece.  I hand washed each piece, trying to get the same amount of bleeding on each piece.  I machine-dried the fabric pieces on a very low heat setting.

Then I pinned each pattern piece to the fabric and machine-stitched around each in yellow thread.  I used this stitching line to both prevent raveling and

as my cutting guide.  I stabilized all curved edges with stay-stitching and thread traced all seam lines.  With red silk thread I traced grain, waist line, and bust line markings.  I sewed the body of the jacket together.

Worried that the seams might roll or bunch up, causing unsightly bulk along the seam line, I pressed open each seam and used catch stitches to hold it to the jacket body.  The stitches do not sew on the outside.  In the picture you can see where the yellow edge stitching and red basting thread has not yet been removed.

Lining:

The lining pieces were basted to the jacket seams on one edge.  Then they were quilted to the jacket fabric using catch stitches (to allow some movement) applied between the layers. 

 The second seam of each piece was pressed under and pinned at the seam line to the neighboring lining piece. (The side panels are handled this way for both seams.) The pinned seams will be slip stitched in place.

Facings:

My pattern called for front, collar and sleeve facings, but I did not have a flat silk that worked well with the jacket color.  So I sandwiched together (pre-washed) two layers of silk organza and one layer of my silk charmeuse lining.  I pad stitched these together and traced the outline a pattern piece on each section.  I encased each “sandwich” in Aqua-Mesh stabilizer and traced an embroidery motif on the stabilizer within the pattern outline.  With 30 weight variable colored thread on my top spool and navy in the bobbin, I used free-motion embroidery to stitch out the design.  I then cut out the pattern pieces and applied them to the jacket per pattern instructions.

 

Helen's Jacket

I had made my suit jacket from the Claire Shaeffer Canal pattern, and made only the usual changes for fit that I apply to all Vogue patterns.  My idea had been to wear it with a black skirt, but my husband persuaded me that I needed to make a matching skirt.  I am glad that I did, although of course I will wear it with a black skirt as well as with the matching one.

I made a muslin, and it did confirm the my thoughts on what I need to do to a pattern.

I misplaced the pattern directions after I had cut out the suit.  Naturally I turned everything upside down to locate it, but it reappeared only after I had finished the suit.  I did try to use Shaeffer's suggestions as much as I remembered them, but not everything was embedded in my brain.  I did use the machine quilting on a piece or two, but I decided that it was too obtrusive, so I removed the quilting lines.  I then stitched the lining and the face fabric together by hand, picking up just a thread or two every inch and a half.  I don't think that this is truly quilting, but it isn't too far off.  Only a bit shows on the lining side.  After I had assembled the pieces, I hand stitched the seam allowance of one piece of lining to the matching piece of the face fabric; then I folded the seam allowance under and blind stitched it to the other seam allowance.

I followed Shaeffer's idea to follow Chanel and make the buttonholes through the face fabric and interfacing only, and then later fake bound buttonholes on the facing side.  I tried to make the buttonholes by hand and decided that my machine buttonholes look better.-I would not make the bound buttonholes on the facing next time. The contrasting facing is beautiful; it really sets off the main fabric.

I used shoulder pads, because I have a body that requires them.  I attached the pockets from the wrong side with cross stitches, something I learned from another Claire Shaeffer pattern years ago; it is a strong attachment and invisible from the right side.  I use this for all patch pockets, and I recommend it.

The three part sleeve with its very noticeable vent worked very well.  This is a detail that I really want to use again.

The chain in the back hem is about sixteen inches long.  I used a jewelry chain from Michael's Craft store.  Of course a longer chain might look great, but I think that one of the reasons to use a chain is to hold the back down and balance the extra weight of all the buttons and pockets on the front.

The skirt is almost my design.  I used just one piece of fabric, substituting very, very deep (about 18") darts for the side seams.  The usual front and back darts are there too.  I made a

deep tuck in the front of the skirt, so that it appears as though this skirt might be a wrap skirt, without the problem of a real wrap skirt's opening.  It also makes matching a plaid simpler, although the fabric that I used did not require matching.  Because the fabric is heavy I faced the waistband with lining fabric to eliminate some bulk.  In other words I cut the waist band only 1 3/4 inches wide, then sewed and another two inch strip of the lining to one long edge. I make my waistbands one inch wide, ans I am short and I think that the narrower than usual waistband suits me.  Naturally I lined the skirt, and I had to sew it from three pieces, as the lining fabric (Ambiance) is 45" wide and could not accommodate the one piece for the back and front that I used on the skirt.

This project was an extremely long one, but it was worth it. I look forward to seeing all the other jackets from the group completed.